Marrakech, Part 3

 A window on the ceiling of the Palais Bahia

Unfortunately few hours after I’d gone to sleep, my cell phone alarm beeped me awake and I rolled out of bed as quickly as possible for someone as tired as I was. I knew the travelers’ adrenaline would kick in once I got to breakfast to say goodbye to my new hostel friends before heading straight to the kasbah to see a palace or two before catching the one o’clock train back to Rabat.

No one else was ready to go, and those who were had seen the palace yesterday, but I didn’t let that stop me as I headed out around 10:30 after a leisurely breakfast and ended up at Palais Badi. I’ve discovered that conservative dress and a confident walk ward off most unwanted comments, and since Marrakech’s streets are filled with girls taller and blonder than I am, I felt very safe on the walk down a narrow street lined with hanoots, pancake vendors, knick-knack shops, and riads.  

An olive seller on the streets of Marrakech

The first palace was in ruins, not worth the 10dh entry until I found the terrace. The view was gorgeous: to one side was Marrakech, crowded with satellite dishes, laundry lines, and minarets. Looking south were the mountains, tall and snowcapped. 

 

The view from Palais Badi

Down the street was the Palais Bahia. The palace was gorgeous, but first I had to get past a very dour ticket man. I greeted him with a happy “salaam” and pushed my 100dh bill under the window. I know from experience already that large bills are rather unwelcome, but I had no coins left. “Smaller?” he demanded, staring me down. “Sorry, I only have this,” I replied in Arabic. “Smaller?” he growled once again. “Sorry,” I replied. Sure to show me just how much effort he was putting into my ticket, he pulled open his cash drawer with a flourish and slowly extracted the requisite change. He handed me my ticket with a scowl, and reluctantly counted back my change. “Shukran bzaaf!” I said with a forced smile as I turned to the path and quickly forgot the poor customer service. The beautiful palace would have been worth the whole 100dh. 

A courtyard in Palais Bahia

Before I knew it I had to leave for the long-ish walk to the train station. The long, hot ride was a smothering end to a wonderful trip that made me appreciate Rabat and feel like I was going home.