Last night, I finally felt at home. It wasn't because I found
American food, or finally adjusted to everything that was different
here. But when the familiar Latin rhythms came on at salsa class and we
all started dancing, I felt like I belonged.
I dance a lot in Chicago, and even when I was terribly busy last quarter, I always made time for Monday night salsa. So it was one thing I very much wanted to continue here in Rabat, even though "danse oriental" is the more common offering.
A Google search revealed that there was one salsa group in Rabat with a facebook page. A couple messages later and I was on my way last night to an intermediate lesson in Agdal, Rabat's modern neighborhood. I caught the tram (6 dh each way - cheaper and cleaner and faster than the CTA!) to the Nations Unis stop, excited since I knew the name of the stop in both Arabic and French when the universal feminine announcer's voice named the prochaine estacion.
Mislead by Google maps, I headed down the street in the wrong direction. Luckily I was early, so once I realized the house numbers were far too high and increasing, I turned around and headed all the way north until the street ended in a mind-boggling knot of a five-way intersection. The road had ended...but I hadn't seen the salsa company. Sighing, I gave up and decided to take a taxi. Knocking on the window of a parked Petit Taxi, he rolled it down and I said, in Modern Standard Arabic (fusha), that I wanted to go to the address of the salsa school. He pointed and said, "This is the right street." Since I had just walked all the way up the street from a number much higher than that of the school, I repeated the number. "There, there," he pointed. "Al-shaar3ia intehi huna?" I said, grammatically-incorrectly asking if the street ended where we were standing. "N3m," he said. Yes. Thanking him, I walked away utterly confused. With only five minutes before the lesson theoretically began in the school that was theoretically right in front of me, I headed back down the street from whence I'd came, eyes peeled.
That's when I noticed "Danse Latin" on the sign of a gym I'd passed twice already. I walked in, and a friendly personal trainer came out to meet me. Although I should have been able to ask in darija, I fell into the slightly-more-comfortable fusha and asked about the class. "Yes," he replied, continuing in French.
It's a common happening that no longer phases me. I ask in Arabic, my conversation partner responds in French. I'm clearly a foreigner, and most foreigners know more French than Arabic. So I just have to say, "Je ne parle pas francais" and explain that I speak shwiya - a little - Arabic, and they break into a smile and attempt to communicate. This particular young man spoke some English, which he was eager to show off. After explaining that the class met upstairs and I just had to wait for the instructor, he asked if we could maybe get coffee sometime - so I could practice my Arabic, so he could practice his English. Although it's probably politically incorrect to doubt his intentions, I most certainly did and responded with a hesitant maybe.
I was saved from the awkward situation by the arrival of a regular, and the trainer wandered off with him into the musculation room. I saw a group of people gathering outside head into another door, so I tentatively followed and found myself in a dance studio surrounded by the familiar salsa beat.
Class went well - just about my level, fast-paced, lots of partner rotations so I didn't feel bad that I was a new addition who threw off the balance. The language of instruction was a combination of French and darija, with English borrowings thrown in at just the right time: "Five, six, seven, eight" rotated between French, Italian, English, Spanish, and Arabic; we were cued by a loud "Go!". There was an American guy in the class, but he already had Moroccan friends and didn't seem eager to regress to talking to a fellow countryman, so I tried to resist asking him to translate for me when anything more than a short instruction was given in French.
Luckily, the class repeats each Monday and Wednesday, so I have plenty of time to make Moroccan friends of my own.
I dance a lot in Chicago, and even when I was terribly busy last quarter, I always made time for Monday night salsa. So it was one thing I very much wanted to continue here in Rabat, even though "danse oriental" is the more common offering.
A Google search revealed that there was one salsa group in Rabat with a facebook page. A couple messages later and I was on my way last night to an intermediate lesson in Agdal, Rabat's modern neighborhood. I caught the tram (6 dh each way - cheaper and cleaner and faster than the CTA!) to the Nations Unis stop, excited since I knew the name of the stop in both Arabic and French when the universal feminine announcer's voice named the prochaine estacion.
Mislead by Google maps, I headed down the street in the wrong direction. Luckily I was early, so once I realized the house numbers were far too high and increasing, I turned around and headed all the way north until the street ended in a mind-boggling knot of a five-way intersection. The road had ended...but I hadn't seen the salsa company. Sighing, I gave up and decided to take a taxi. Knocking on the window of a parked Petit Taxi, he rolled it down and I said, in Modern Standard Arabic (fusha), that I wanted to go to the address of the salsa school. He pointed and said, "This is the right street." Since I had just walked all the way up the street from a number much higher than that of the school, I repeated the number. "There, there," he pointed. "Al-shaar3ia intehi huna?" I said, grammatically-incorrectly asking if the street ended where we were standing. "N3m," he said. Yes. Thanking him, I walked away utterly confused. With only five minutes before the lesson theoretically began in the school that was theoretically right in front of me, I headed back down the street from whence I'd came, eyes peeled.
That's when I noticed "Danse Latin" on the sign of a gym I'd passed twice already. I walked in, and a friendly personal trainer came out to meet me. Although I should have been able to ask in darija, I fell into the slightly-more-comfortable fusha and asked about the class. "Yes," he replied, continuing in French.
It's a common happening that no longer phases me. I ask in Arabic, my conversation partner responds in French. I'm clearly a foreigner, and most foreigners know more French than Arabic. So I just have to say, "Je ne parle pas francais" and explain that I speak shwiya - a little - Arabic, and they break into a smile and attempt to communicate. This particular young man spoke some English, which he was eager to show off. After explaining that the class met upstairs and I just had to wait for the instructor, he asked if we could maybe get coffee sometime - so I could practice my Arabic, so he could practice his English. Although it's probably politically incorrect to doubt his intentions, I most certainly did and responded with a hesitant maybe.
I was saved from the awkward situation by the arrival of a regular, and the trainer wandered off with him into the musculation room. I saw a group of people gathering outside head into another door, so I tentatively followed and found myself in a dance studio surrounded by the familiar salsa beat.
Class went well - just about my level, fast-paced, lots of partner rotations so I didn't feel bad that I was a new addition who threw off the balance. The language of instruction was a combination of French and darija, with English borrowings thrown in at just the right time: "Five, six, seven, eight" rotated between French, Italian, English, Spanish, and Arabic; we were cued by a loud "Go!". There was an American guy in the class, but he already had Moroccan friends and didn't seem eager to regress to talking to a fellow countryman, so I tried to resist asking him to translate for me when anything more than a short instruction was given in French.
Luckily, the class repeats each Monday and Wednesday, so I have plenty of time to make Moroccan friends of my own.
Hi, I'm an American student studying abroad in Rabat, and I'm looking for salsa dance as well! What's the name of the facebook group you found?
ReplyDeleteHere's the webpage: http://www.facebook.com/#!/Mamborama.Dance.Company
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